Swedish Overland Logo
  • Hem
  • Hojen
    • 800 XCa
    • Tidigare ägt
    • 800XC
    • XRV750
    • NX650
    • Tiger 800 Specs
    • Tiger 800 XC modeller
    • Tiger 800 MK1 Specs
    • Tiger 800 MK2 Specs
    • Tiger 800 MK3 Specs
  • Resorna
    • Kaukasien 2025
    • Irland 2022
    • Italien 2021
    • Polen 2020
    • Alperna 2019
    • Östeuropa 2018
    • Brittiska öarna & IOM TT 2017
    • Spanien 2016
    • Balkan 2015
    • Island 2014
    • Europa 2013
    • Europa 2012
    • Europa 2011
  • Trips
    • Caucasus 2025
    • Ireland 2022
    • Italy 2021
    • Poland 2020
    • Alps 2019
    • Eastern Europe 2018
    • British Isles & IOM TT 2017
    • Spain 2016
    • Balkans & Baltics 2015
    • Iceland 2014
    • Europe 2013
    • Europe 2012
    • Europe 2011
  • Bästa vägarna
  • Kontakt
  • YouTube
  • Instagram

Day 22: Kayseri to Taşucu

Turkey Thursday  Dateicon  21.8.2025 TRNCCyprus
Tigericon 420km Total: 5296km Handlebaricon 5h 55m Total: 75h 46m
Ferryicon  120km Total: 1620kmFeeticon  2.67km Total: 177.39km Weathericon

 

Since I entered the western part of Türkiye, the road standard has gotten significantly worse, but there are still multi-lane highways and traffic is flowing.
I left the hotel late and take my time but still arrived at the port in Taşucu ridiculously ahead of time, even though they require check-in two hours before departure.

I spent some time at a kebab shop with a snack and some tea.

I went down to the port three hours before the boat was supposed to depart and after passport control I was allowed to ride in and park.
Inside there where exemplary signs stating "passengers and vehicles" telling me where to go.
In the building next to the parking area, the passport was stamped as a mere formality.

The check-in, however, was anything but exemplary as it was in a building on the other side of the entrance and in a hatch facing the quay that was not visible until you started walking around the building.
After checking my passport, booking and registration, I got my tickets and was able to get back to the bike.

The border police specifically told me to leave the bike so in the meantime I assume they where supposed to have checked it but I didn't notice that anything had been messed with at all and immediately I get back they open a gate so we can go down and line up on the quay.
Many of us are early (which is partly necessary due to the early check-in) because we stand there for half an hour to forty-five minutes before they even start unloading the cars that came from the other direction.

It is almost embarrassing to admit that I didn't know this but the thought didn't occur to me that Cyprus drives on the left side of the road until I see all the right-hand drive CY-registered vehicles.

It will be exciting to set off on the wrong side of the road tomorrow morning probably without having slept a wink for twenty four hours or more.

While waiting, a South Cypriot biker named Damian rides up and parks along side.
He and his girlfriend had taken the ferry over to Greece and had taken a long trip through the Balkans and Türkiye to finally make it back to the island.

When we finally get to board the ferry, I'm denied entry because I was supposed to have had my ticket stamped by customs.
No one could explain where customs actually was, so I head back on a completely wild goose chase and go back into the building where the border police were.
They don't understand what I'm on about at all and just want to check my passport again.
I rode back to the boat and asked them to try and explain better.
One guy speaks at least decent English and he chats with the loading master, after which he says Don't worry, well make sure you'll get on the boat.
I was still a but worried, but then at least the wild panic that I would be left behind because of a damn stamp subsided.
Finally, a guy shows up on a moped and guides me back to the customs office, which is a small (and completely unmarked) barracks on the side of the building where I checked in.
When I finally get on the ferry, no one told me where to go so the only reasonable thing to do was to park where another bike and a scooter were already standing.
Before I leave the bike, I talk to a stevedore and ask if it's okay to just leave the bike on the side stand (which the others have done) and he says okay.

However, I forget a few things I intended to bring with me during the crossing so after a while I go back down and when I pick it up I run into another stevedore, so again I point to my bike and ask if it's okay. He also says okay.

After a good fifteen minutes, they call out Damian's registration number over the speakers.
He doesn't seem to notice this, but eventually I meet him and he is accompanied by one of the stevedores who says that I also need to come along.
Unfortunately, it wasn't the English-speaking stevedore so it's hard to get him to explain what the problem is and when he says 'customs' again I think ok, game over, they're going to kick me off the boat for some bureaucratic customs blunder and I'll miss the sailing we at this point should already have departed hours ago.
Once down by the bikes, however, it turns out that Damian seems to have made the same mistake as me but somehow still managed to get on board the boat without the stamp.
In my case, it was about the bike's placement (which was ok according to two different people) not being ok at all. It had to be moved to a completely different spot.
The new placement didn't seem much better from my perspective than the old one so I think it was really about them wanting to optimise the placement of the trucks on car deck.
At best I could have sat and dozed in a chair during the five-hour crossing, but considering what a heart thumping thriller this turned out to be, it wasn't until long after the ferry had left (which wasn't until after 2am) that I started to relax and stopped sitting on my haunches waiting to hear my registration number called out over the speakers.

 

Why not take the opportunity to buy a new wheelchair while filling up at the gas station?
Caucasus 2025

Even though there was a lot of highway riding, it was a damn nice highway.
Caucasus 2025

The port of Taşucu
Caucasus 2025 Caucasus 2025 Caucasus 2025

If you're stupid enough to try and replicate this journey hopefully this might help with where to go and what to do
Misc Images

Day 23: Girne, TRNC to Nicosia, Cyprus

TRNC Friday  Dateicon  22.8.2025 Cyprus
Tigericon 30km Total: 5326km Handlebaricon 1h 51m Total: 77h 37m
Feeticon 7.13km Total: 184.52km Weathericon

 

They let people down to the car deck before they start unloading and it's almost 40° (104ºF) down there.
All the trucks are already idling which definately didn't help.
It was almost panic-inducing.
I had a strong feeling there weren't going to do anything to the bike when I left it and indeed they hadn't.
There was nothing securing the bike but apparently it went well anyway.

Once off the boat there is just as much lack of information as when we were going on.
Damian who got off the ship before me tells me where to go first which is a booth outside a building on the left as seen from the border control.
There I need to pick up a waybill for the bike which they can't find so they have to make a new one.
The TPL for Northern Cyprus needs to be sorted out as well.
It really doesn't start off great when the old man in the booth really, really wants me to be Swiss as he's holding my opened Swedish passport.
I think I waited a good half hour for the insurance before I can go on to passport control.

There was no queue at all so that was the only part of the process that actually went smooth.
Because now, with my papers in order, I can finally go back out to the queue exiting the port.
There was only two windows with customs officers servicing everyone leaving the port including all the foot passengers.
For a port where boats run shuttle services several times a day there was a chocking lack of information and there is not a single thing that is signposted other than in Turkish.
In total, from the boat arriving until I could leave the port, it took just over two hours.

But wait, it gets worse! Much, much worse!
Because I don't get to ride more than a few miles before it's time for the border control (Kermia) between north and south Cyprus.
The sun is mercilessly scorching, the temperature is 41° (106ºF), the queues are basically standing still and there was no possibility of pulling over.
It's the closest thing to hell on earth I've ever experienced.
The toll in Belgrade in 2015 was horrible but this really gave gave me a panic attack the likes of which I'm glad to say have been few and far between in my life up to this point.

There was a gentleman at the border control on the Turkish side selling cold bottled water for 20 Lira (<€0.5) a bottle which under the circumstances was pure charity, I had paid fifty bucks a bottle at that point as I basically felt like I was slowly dying.

I turned off in no man's land as it was the first place in an hour I could finally get some shade (from a tree).
I drink absolutely copious amounts of water (I think just over 2 liters) and have no desire whatsoever to get back on the bike as the queue is just as horrible all the way to the South Cypriot side, although significantly shorter.

I chatted a bit over Instagram with the biker Damian I met on the ferry and asked if it is like this all the time?
No, he replied, sometimes it is warmer.

I stood there under my tree for over an hour before I felt I had both the mental and physical strength to get back on the bike.
Luckily enough it was only a few kilometers to the hotel after I'd gone through the Cypriot checkpoint.
I don't think I've ever been more in need of a cold shower in my entire life, it was absolute heaven.
Sunstroke and dehydration have triggered a migraine so even if it weren't for the fact that I'm basically physically exhausted, it was time to get horizontal for a while.
I take a decent nap and then go for a walk that ends with some supper and a Guinness.

 

The border crossing from hell
Caucasus 2025

Another map of where things are located at the Girne port
Misc Images

Day 24: Nicosia

Cyprus Saturday  Dateicon  23.8.2025  Parked
Feeticon 11.97km Total: 196.49km Weathericon

It's so freaking hot being in direct sunlight is panic inducing.
There's no way I'm going to take a long walk outside in this heat so I head to the Cyprus Museum and am pleasantly surprised that admission is free.

A fun curiosity as a Swede was that there was a room dedicated to the Swedish Cyprus Expedition, a trio of Swedish archaeologists who roamed the island in a Volvo ÖV4 and who, as I understand it, were the first to actually map the history of Cyprus.

After this, I pop into a Cypriot grill restaurant and manage to order a bunch of side dishes for what was apparently a menu from the start.
It was a great meal.

I stroll along Ledra Street until I find Shacolas Tower, an observation deck in a high-rise building with panoramic views of the city.
It was a bit of a tourist trap, but admission only cost €2.50 so it was definitely worth it.

The next stop was actually the Famagusta city gate and the Venetian walls but google maps wants me to go through the Ledra checkpoint into the North Cypriot side.
Unlike the nightmare on the bike it was done in a few minutes so I guess why not?

Once over on that side I take the opportunity to look at the Büyük Han and the Selimiye Camii mosque before I realise that google's shortcut to the city gate is based on me somehow magically going straight through a wall.

I find my way back through the checkpoint and finally find my way to the city gate and the remains of the ring wall.

By now it's already evening so I find my way back to Ledra street and have dinner at a Vietnamese restaurant which I follow up with a Guinness at Cheers.

The latter could definitely risk becoming a tradition during my stay here.

 

Cyprus Museum
Caucasus 2025 Caucasus 2025 Caucasus 2025 Caucasus 2025

Cyprus Museum, The Swedish Cyprus Expedition
Caucasus 2025

Shacolas Tower
Caucasus 2025 Caucasus 2025

Resolution Monument at the checkpoint on Ledra Street.
Caucasus 2025

Büyük Han
Caucasus 2025

Selimiye Camii
Caucasus 2025 Caucasus 2025

Famagusta city gate and the Venetian walls
Caucasus 2025 Caucasus 2025

  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 6
  • 7
  • 8
  • 9
  • 10
  • 11
  • 12
Swedish Overland Logo
  • Hem
  • Hojen
    • 800 XCa
    • Tidigare ägt
    • 800XC
    • XRV750
    • NX650
    • Tiger 800 Specs
    • Tiger 800 XC modeller
    • Tiger 800 MK1 Specs
    • Tiger 800 MK2 Specs
    • Tiger 800 MK3 Specs
  • Resorna
    • Kaukasien 2025
    • Irland 2022
    • Italien 2021
    • Polen 2020
    • Alperna 2019
    • Östeuropa 2018
    • Brittiska öarna & IOM TT 2017
    • Spanien 2016
    • Balkan 2015
    • Island 2014
    • Europa 2013
    • Europa 2012
    • Europa 2011
  • Trips
    • Caucasus 2025
    • Ireland 2022
    • Italy 2021
    • Poland 2020
    • Alps 2019
    • Eastern Europe 2018
    • British Isles & IOM TT 2017
    • Spain 2016
    • Balkans & Baltics 2015
    • Iceland 2014
    • Europe 2013
    • Europe 2012
    • Europe 2011
  • Bästa vägarna
  • Kontakt
  • YouTube
  • Instagram