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Day 16: Yerevan

Armenia Friday  Dateicon  15.8.2025  Parked
Feeticon 17.34km Total: 130.67km Weathericon

The only negative thing I can say about the hotel is that it doesn't serve breakfast.
However, following a tip from the concierge, the solution to the problem is a food court just a ten-minute walk away.
The breakfast turned out to be very low-carb, as I didn't realise that rice was a separate order, but it was still a nice enough meal.

I don't mind walking when I'm on vacation, but the destinations I had in mind today were a bit too far away to be realistically walkable, so I downloaded an Armenian taxi app called gg and ordered a car to the Motherland Monument.

According to the guidebook, the monument was supposed to house a museum dedicated to Armenia's contribution to World War II (which was extensive).
Perhaps it used to be, but now, unless I misunderstood something drastically, the entire museum seems to be dedicated to the conflict surrounding Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh).
Just before the exit, an old woman stood by a diorama of a World War II battlefield, lit it up and then said, almost word for word: three hundred thousand Armenians dead, donation please.
Normally, I have nothing against voluntary donations and will gladly contribute, but as a tourist with no ties to Armenia whatsoever I was not impressed by this extremely underwhelming experience at all.

From here I had planned to continue on to the memorial and museum dedicated to the Armenian genocide.
However, the taxi app had other ideas.
It is so user-unfriendly that I wonder why they bothered to translate it into English at all.
I booked a car, the car arrived (according to the app), but it sure as hell didn't arrive at my location.
In fact, I have no idea where that car went exactly.

With no other options, I had no choice but to start walking, but walking the entire distance was completely unrealistic.
After a couple of kilometres, I passed a Radisson where I marched up to the reception and asked them to call a taxi, which worked perfectly.

The memorial to the genocide was very tasteful and the museum was extremely informative and well done.
Of course, one has to apply a modicum of critical thinking when a people write their own history, but the parallels to the Holocaust cannot be denied.
Just to really illustrate how the Nazis were inspired by this, Hitler is said to have stated the evening before the invasion of Poland:
After all, who talks about the extermination of the Armenians today?

Although my stomach turned a few times during the exhibition, the hunger that now makes itself felt cannot be ignored.
I don't have to go far, as there is a restaurant in the same park as the memorial/museum.
Normally, I try to avoid deserted restaurants, but as I said, I was very hungry, so I went for it anyway.
And luckily I did, because what I got was by far the tastiest minced meat kebab I have ever eaten.
That, a portion of chips and a large beer cost about seven euros, despite the tourist trap location.

I try the taxi app again, with the result that the taxi goes to my intended destination and waits for me there, leaving me with no way to do anything about it.
The app is truly awful.

It's lucky I have a pair of decent walking shoes, because this time there was no Radisson along the way.
After four kilometres, I am charged five euros for the journey that never happened.
It could have been worse. I actually expected to be blacklisted from the app altogether.

After several failed attempts, I realise that in this app, you set a route for the driver, similar to Google Maps.
So, after clearing all the old rubbish, I make another attempt, which, lo and behold, actually works!
However, as revenge, they send ‘Karen’ to pick me up, who, somewhat unexpectedly, turns out to be a young bearded man.
After driving as if he had stolen the car and dropping me off (at the right place), ‘Karen’ continues to drive at my expense for at least another twenty minutes.
I find it difficult to understand the strategy, as he earned less than 1 euro by doing this but just like in all other apps of this type, you rate the driver, and he obviously got the rating he deserved.

St. Gregory's Cathedral was an impressive building on the outside but almost completely bare on the inside.
But after all, it is a place that serves a purpose, and its capacity to accommodate people have to be enormous.

By now I'm so close to the city center that destinations are walkable again, and I feel pretty much done with sightseeing, so I head for a lovely pint at The Beatles Pub.
But it is Friday after all and evening is fast approaching, so the place is filling up and a barmaid seems to have been tasked with packing the place like a sardine can.
Ordering food while sitting shoulder to shoulder at the bar wasn't very appealing so I start trudging back to the hotel with the idea of finding something along the way.

When I pass a restaurant (Mov) that has something called Lamb khashlama in dark beer, my fate is sealed.
It was described as a stew but turned out to be more like a soup.
But with that kind of result they can describe it however the hell the want as it tasted sublime absolutely regardless of consistency.

When I was about to order a plate of melon for dessert, the waiter said it was too much for one person and offered me half a portion, which I accepted.
I almost regretted it later because that honeydew melon was like a loving kiss from a beautiful woman.
It didn't even need to be chewed, it just melted like butter.

It was a pretty luxurious meal at a restaurant that exuded exclusivity, so the final bill of just over €29 was pretty reasonable considering.
All in all, a fantastic experience and a perfect end to the evening.

 

Motherland Monument
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Tsitsernakaberd
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Saint Gregory's Cathedral
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National Museum
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Evening meal at Mov
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Day 17: Yerevan

Armenia Saturday  Dateicon  16.8.2025  Parked
Feeticon 19.09km Total: 149.76km Weathericon

Now that I think I understand how the taxi app works, I thought I would indulge myself and first go to the same food court I had lunch at yesterday and then on to Ararat Brandy where I had booked a tour at 11:30.
Since it included a tasting, I would have liked to have done this a little later in the day even though it was Saturday but it was the only time available.

However, I apparently don't have as good a grasp of the app as I thought, although I would probably like to claim that it was the app that didn't have a clue about me because when I chose to be picked up at my location, the taxi definitely didn't go to my actual location.
Apparently, it will be Armenian brandy for breakfast today because with this debacle, I need to run along if I'm going to make the tour.

I won't complain too much about the tour because the guide seemed inspired enough and there was really nothing wrong with her language skills either.
But with what I have left of my hearing (which is probably less than I would like to admit to myself) I didn't understand much as the room where the tour was taking place had an echo that was out of this world, it was like being in a cave.
They haven't done anything to improve the acoustics at all.

It was still a pretty rewarding tour which ended with a tasting of two different Ararat brandies which were not bad at all so for the 4500 Dram (€10) fee it was still time well spent.
(I didn't drink all the brandy without having eaten breakfast first though because even though my intelligence might be debatable I do have some brains.)

I popped into the first restaurant I could find on the way back for brunch which turned out to be one called The Accent.
Sure I ordered noodles with chicken so it wasn't the most expensive thing on the menu but with a draft beer (I've never said I'm the smartest person in the world either) and a cup of tea after the meal it cost the equivalent of €10.5 at a restaurant that had real class.
Yerevan is really not an expensive destination.

I move on to the History Museum of Armenia, which had a very large collection from the Bronze Age.

After that, I land at the Hard Rock Cafe for a refreshing beverage where the staff was almost shocked that I wanted to go into the restaurant and have something to drink.
It was half past three in the afternoon on a Saturday, but maybe they are used to people just buying a t-shirt and leaving.
I sat completely alone in the restaurant, googling for something to do during the evening and found a Yerevan free walking tour, which was supposed to start from Republic Square about half an hour later. Perfect!

I down my beer, buy a bottle of water and head over there.
At first, it seemed like a very modest turnout, but in the end there were still ten of us, which was a nicely sized group.

The guide was a charming woman with long, bright red hair called Lucy.
The hair was really extremely practical when it's a person you actually need to follow.

The focus of the tour was quite broad as she provided historical facts mixed with purely practical tourist tips about what to see and where to eat and what.
The tour lasted almost three hours and was a fantastically pleasant way to spend the evening.
Even though the tour is "free", you are expected to tip the guide and of course I did.
I gave her 5000 Dram (€11) which she seemed to be completely happy with.

One of the funniest things on the tour I thought was when I asked the guide if it didn't generate a bit of friction that the country's national symbol (Mount Ararat) is no longer in Armenia?
Yes, the guide replied, the Turks sometimes question that the symbol of our country's not even ours, but then we usually respond by asking why the Turks have the moon on their flag.

I have dinner at a place called Beer Republic (a bit unimaginatively next door to where I ate yesterday).
Some kind of lamb stew with split potatoes.
Fantastically delicious.

 

Ararat Brandy
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Historical Museum
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© Yerevan Free Walking Tours
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Katoghike church
A church from 1264 that has been forgotten and rediscovered throughout history.
In 1695, a basilica was built around the church, which meant that it was hidden in a corner and forgotten.
Until the Soviets ordered the basilica to be demolished in 1936, when it was rediscovered and saved through massive protests.
But it was saved only to the extent that it was not demolished, the Soviets' anything but benevolent attitude towards religious buildings meant that they chose to build a language institute around it, whereby it was again hidden from the people and fell into oblivion.
Some time after the fall of the Soviets, the language institute was demolished and the church saw the light of day again.
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Day 18: Yerevan

Armenia Sunday  Dateicon  17.8.2025  Parked
Feeticon 8.55km Total: 158.31km Weathericon

I treat myself to a bit of a lie in as I don't have much planned and have brunch at the SAS food court after walking through a market right next door.

Modern art doesn't usually appeal to me much but I have time to waste so why not?
There were in fact several works there that I really liked so it turn out to be a nice enough visit and time well spent.

After that I try to get into the National Museum for what then will be unmodern art?
They didn't communicate their actual opening hours very well as it said it would be open absolutely everywhere (including right outside the door) but alas it still turned out to be closed.

The alternative was a real tourist trap, an illusion museum within easy walking distance of Republic Square.
6500 Dram (€15) for admission was comparatively shockingly high but that was with guides (one per floor) who were actually more engaged than one would expect.
A lot of it was terribly childish but I've never claimed to be particularly grown up so I thought it was pretty fun after all.

By now my imagination is running out regarding thing to see or do out so I go back to the Beatles Pub where I have a pint and some supper before taking a taxi back to the hotel and preparing for tomorrow's departure.

Thanks to the fiasco with Azerbaijan I'm loosing a small fortune as I was stupid enough to opt out of free cancellation at the hotel in both Baku and Yerevan.

Actually I have the room here booked until Wednesday but I chose to stay through Sunday mostly for strategic reasons.
Given the hellish journey between Batumi and Tbilisi it seemed sensible to wait until a weekday before I hit the road again as I have the time.

I haven't booked accommodation for tomorrow yet as I don't feel like spending any more money on rooms I've never stayed in.
Since I'm going to cross two borders, I want to be sure that I'll get into Turkey at a reasonable hour but I'm tentatively aiming for the town of Kars.

Now that it's getting close to time to leave Armenia, I can reflect a bit on national identity.

Besides the mountain (in Turkey), Armenians seem to have a kind of back-up national symbol, and that is the apricot fruit.

It sometimes takes on somewhat absurd proportions, such as brewing an apricot beer (which I can confirm is exactly as horrible as it sounds as I was stupid enough to try it).

In addition, they don't call the orange in the flag orange it's apricot.

The guide on yesterday's walking tour rendered the flag's symbolism in its entirety.

I'm paraphrasing a bit freely here:

Red: Symbolizes the blood that Armenians have spilled and all they are prepared to sacrifice to protect their country.
They are basically prepared to slaughter their enemies in an orgy of blood, guts and brain matter and then drink wine from their enemies' skulls.
It was a vivid description of brutal and total carnage.

Blue: Symbolizes how they want to live peacefully under the blue sky.

Orange: Apricot damn it, we need some apricot in the flag!

The guide didn't see anything contradictory between the first two at all.

 

The market next to the food court.
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Museum of Modern Art
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Museum of Illusions
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No. Just no.
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