Day 4 Seyðisfjörður to Dettifoss

Thursday  Dateicon  31.7.2014  Tigericon  359km Total:791km

We get of the ferry and park on a large gravel parking to rearrange our gear and put warmer clothes on, the weather wasn't that bad about 14°C and cloudy but considering we came directly from +25°C heat in Sweden and Denmark it not all that cozy either.

It seems Paul didn't even break pace going off the ferry so he's already long gone, however Joakim and Dieter ask if we want to join them on the way to the biggest city in the east of Iceland, Egilsstadir to get some supplies and lunch. That of course we do.

The minute we ride up on the fjell the temperature drops like a stone to +4° (there are handy signs at the side of the road with temperature and windspeed to tell you exactly how much you are actually freezing) and it rains and stops in five minute intervals.
Just enough time to almost get your mind up about suiting up in raingear.

So we arrive in Egilsstadir (at least I did) pretty cold and soaked, it really felt like the climate was telling us to get back on the ferry and back to where we came.
We park at Netto supermarket in Egilsstadir to do some shopping, warm socks was already at the top of my list!
After that we go across the road to a greasy spoon to get a bite to eat, we get the dish of the day which is deep fried lamb pork chops (with the bone still on them).
It was pretty good once you learned what part of it you wouldn't break your teeth on.

After lunch Dieter and Joakim head of for some inland exploring and I start convincing Bear that the tent he bought for this trip probably would come to better use on a finer day (it was still raining at the time).
After a lot of convincing I get the laptop and start searching for somewhere to stay, there aren't a lot of options so we go for Grimstunga Guesthouse on the road to Dettifoss waterfall.
At about €110 a night it wasn't exactly cheap but the thought of a warm shower and a proper bed would definitely get me through the rest of the day.

First we set off to the northwest point of Iceland called Dyrfjöll, it has been said that it was the inspiration for Tolkien when he wrote about Mordor in the lord of the rings so it was pretty high on our to-do list.
On the way, right in the middle of absolutely nowhere we find a green shed-like building which serves as a kind of self-catering solar-powered kiosk. Pretty cool idea.
The landscape is stunningly beautiful, the roads are almost empty but my lord
I mean it not like I've was completely oblivious to the fact that we where going to a cold place, the Ice in the name kind of gives that away but still, this is supposed to be high summer here.
It's not just a little chilly either, it's absolutely freezing. It's was frikking colder than my ex wife's heart.
I'm so glad I bit the bullet and ordered a Keiss heated jacket liner, and can only come to the conclusion that the guy who stated in a review that you'll never need the highest setting has obviously never been to Iceland.
Once arrived at Dyrfjöll the GPS tells me that it's really still 8kms of walking to do before we're actually there.
Not really what we were up to so pretty much a fiasco but the great riding and sublime view it definately didn't feel like a fiasco, it was still a great ride.

We stop to get some coffee on the way to Dittifoss and I already start to worry about gas I opt for getting gas before Dittifoss even though it would be out of our way, the Tiger is a thirsty beast and the pumps on the northern part of Iceland are few and far between.
The Bear starts crunching the numbers and argues that with the cans (which I had considered to be a last resort) we'll have plenty of fuel to spare without going out of our way.
When the Bearminator T101 starts spewing out calculations I get a migraine so I'd rather just trust that he knows what he's doing.
When it comes to numbers he's usually right.

We ride on to Dittifoss, according to the guidebook in pure volume of water it's the most powerful waterfall in all of Europe and I don't doubt it one bit, my god what a sight it was.
The road up to Dittifoss was a washboard of black gravel and on a few places submerged in water where it was a lot more comfortable to go fast and ride over the ridges so we were passing a lot of rentalcars on the way, I couldn't help thinking about the Gold Wing Trike with the trailer.

We ride from Dittifoss to Grimstunga Guesthouse and are greeted by the lady of the manor.
After check-in she asks if we want food, considering the meal was €33 I did expect to be asked maybe what we'd like to eat but that was obviously not the way it worked around these parts. It's food? Yes or no.
We decided yes and we're pleasantly surprised when she at least asked if we'd like to get settled first for a microsecond before she changed her mind and stated it's better for me if you eat now. You eat now. Dinner is in there.
It was pretty hilarious really, she reminded me of Consuela in Family Guy.
I had already said that I'm allergic to milk but when the dessert arrived with a mountain of cream on it I didn't really want to make a fuss so I just ate around the cream and left the rest. (The repercussions of this will be severe.)
After dinner we get a shower and crawl in to bed, even though the rooms were very small I was happy as a clam and truly felt sorry for the German guy who slept in a tent outside in the field that was pretty much submerged.


This is how we rode throughout the two week trip.

Arriving in Seydisfjördur.

The strange little kiosk by the side of the road.

With roads and views like this it doensn't really matter if you get where you're going

Coffeebreak on the way to Dittifoss, one of the best accessories I've ever bought. The boiler did struggle to get the water warm though.

Dettifoss waterfall


Grimstunga guesthouse