Day 18-19 Seyðisfjörður, Iceland to Torshavn, Faroe Islands

Thursday-Friday  Dateicon  14-15.8.2014  Tigericon  250km Total:4138km

The day has come to leave Iceland behind us and thank god we get a break with the weather since we need to check in at the port and wait down on the docks at least 3 hours before departure.
Why we need to be there so early is beyond me since we're getting dropped off at Torhavn we'll be the first ones off and therefore the last ones to board the ship at Seydis.

We spend the time enjoying the sunshine and trading some stories until we get on the boat and head of at 11 o'clock.
The fastening of the bikes are different this time around, instead of the four fastening points there are chains and straps across the deck which we're supposed to strap our bikes to.

Those who got to strap down to the chains had it pretty good but the poor sods who had to tie down to the straps had almost mission impossible since it gave way.
When the guy next to you fastened his bike yours would become loose and vice versa.
The stevedore rationed out two straps per bike with the motivation that we were expecting calm seas (it would later become apparent that his definition of calm seas is a lot different from mine).

We barely leave the fjord before my sea legs become somewhat wobbly so after lunch we head back to the cabin and watch TV for a couple of hours before it's time to get some sleep.
We have to leave the cabin two hours before arrival local time which means we need to be out at 1AM. Not even under the best of circumstances were we to get much sleep on this journey.
Now just as I was drifting into blissful sleep the god damned Karaoke started.
I don't know exactly where this karaokebar was located but judging by the sound level I would say it was in our cabin.
I press my earplugs all the way into my brain but we would only get a half an hour of blissful silence before we were to leave the cabin.

We find a quiet spot in an open area and slumber on until they let us down on car deck to our bikes.
It's apparent that they don't intend more than a lightning stop in Torshavn since the crew signals for us to unstrap the bikes even before we've docked and even before the bow visor is lowered all the bikes are lined up with engines running just waiting for start of the race.

We head off into the rainy Faroese night driving lap after lap through Torshavn looking for somewhere to get breakfast and/or a cup of coffee.
After we've met the same group of bikes for the third time we realize that we're out of luck so we pull up to a gas station to fill up the bikes.

As we do a young lady rides up and starts filling up her Beemer, call it racial profiling if you like but with platinum blonde hair and a skin tone so light it's almost transparent I just assumed she was a local.
So I ask her if there really isn't anything on the Island(s) that is open at night? She thinks about it for a couple of seconds before replying that sorry, absolutely nothing is open until 7AM (it's now 3.30).

Before heading out into the night a German biker pulls up and after seeing that indeed this place is closed too exclaims a loud Scheisse! before storming off again.
That word pretty much summed it up the experice for all of us.
We barely get out of Torshavn before our appointed road captain Joakim encounters a new danger, an enormous flock of Geese all across the surface of the road.
Now either they've had their wings clipped or the constant rain has made them suicidal because they are very reluctant to move.
As we ride through the night and the break of day we'll learn that this is a very common occurrence and a real danger.

Just as the day breaks we've found our way through rain, darkness, mist and suicidal geese to the westernmost part of Vagar island, Sorvagur fjord and an old church just by the foot of a waterfall.
It was absolutely breathtakingly beautiful.

We continue exploring Vagar island until 7AM when we stop at a gas station to get breakfast.
Earliest check-in at the hotel is 2PM so we had plenty more exploring to do.
We spend the day exploring Vagar island, the northern part of the main island Streymoy until we stop for lunch at a fish restaurant on the eastern island of Eysturoy.

We've now pretty much ridden half of all drivable roads in the country before lunch time on our first day.
After lunch we ride out to the southernmost point of Eysturoy before we part ways with Joakim, we head back to check in at the hotel in Torshavn and Joakim continue east to Bordoy to look for a good place to set up camp.
Garmin has no GPS-coverage for the Faroe Islands so we had to go oldschool to find the hotel in traffic that was pretty hysterical for such a small town.

We finally found it and find ourselves having to park our bikes in slope, more or less all of Torshavn is built in a slope towards the harbor and when you take murphys law into account it will always lean opposite to the side stand of the bike.
With next to no sleep for the last 30 hours this was a disaster just waiting to happen so of course I drop the bike.
No real damage done except to my pride, I manage two weeks on Iceland without incident but I can't f**king park on the Faroe Islands. My mood has now gone from bad to nuclear.

Properly parked, checked in, a hot shower and two beers later I'm back down to Defcon 5.
A quick google for restaurants gives 5 valid alternatives, after getting 4 no:s and at the fifth the waitress almost laughs out loud asking What? Do you mean tonight? we realize we should either have booked a table before we left Sweden or we need to lower our standards.

We actually end up at the café next to the hotel where we would only have to wait 40 minutes to get something to eat.
The food was ready in half the time and by then that club sandwich was heaven on earth, especially if you throw in a Faroese beer in the mix, nectar of the gods.
That was pretty much all she wrote, I had now been awake for 36+ hours so it's lucky the hotel and the bed I now desire with a passion is next door because that beer hit me like a shovel in the face.

 

Wating to board the ferry in Seyðisfjörður

Strapping down the bikes

Waiting for the start of the race, ferry disembark in Torshavn. (Warning! Loud sirén in the video)

Sørvágur fjord, Vágar

Gjógv, Eysturoy



Torshavn