Day 14: Liverpool, England to Edinburgh, Scotland

England Monday  Dateicon  12.6.2017 Skottland
Tigericon  403km Total: 1983km  Feeticon  1.83km Total: 99.36km

Trying to sleep mid day in central Liverpool beside a heavily trafficked road is about as easy as it sound.
I think I at least got a couple of hours total.
Nisse got fed up with it before I did and is already packed and ready to leave at a quarter to eleven.

I'll try and trick my body into thinking it's new day by taking a shower before I load up my gear so I bid farewell to Nisse and the rest of the gang.
When I get to the parking there's still a quartet of people left from the group who waves goodbye as they leave for Harwich.
I need to sort out the business with the Datsun I totalled on the Isle of man with my insurance company before I head of but they we're efficient about the whole thing so it wasn't long before I could hit the road.

I want to get straight to Scotland so I head towards Edinburg on some scenic routes... or at least so I thought.
I'm so tired it's a miracle I get out of Liverpool in one piece and almost mechanically just doing what the GPS is telling me to do. That's a mistake.
It seems that the small difference of the map in Basecamp being just a year older than the one in the unit is enough to screw up the route completely.
I've at least been going in roughly the right direction but apart from that I'm completely off my intended route.

After filling up on energy with a readymeal somewhere along the way I redo the route in the unit so I at least get the A68 across the Scottish border.
It was a great bit of road but I'm surprised that just a slight difference in altitude makes such a big difference on the weather.
Up at the border it was cloudy, drizzling rain, windy and cold but once I started riding downhill it was just fifteen minutes until the clouds dispersed and it was sunshine.
Pretty weird but very nice.

I stop in Jedburgh because I can see the majestic ruin of Jedburgh Abbey from the road.
Even though it was closed for the day it was a pretty good view from the wrong side of the fence as well.
With the lack of sleep I wasn't sure I would make it to Edinburgh so I still haven't booked any accommodation.
But with just 75kms to go it's time to sort it so I get a pot of tea at a pub across the street from the Abbey and start looking for somewhere to stay.

Since I won't be doing anything after arrival than sleep and I have great expectations of Edinburgh I booked three nights at MW Guesthouse just outside old town.
A bit wasteful considering that my days are after all pretty limited but I need to sort out a definite route before I continue on so I'll make constructive use of the time.
After check-in and a warm shower I'm so tired I'm almost crying, it was a long time since it felt this good to lie down.

 

Lunch. It's at this point I realize that the GPS have taken me on a very strange detour but this particular road I didn't mind at all.
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Scotland border crossing
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Jedburgh Abbey
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Day 15: Edinburgh

Skottland Tuesday  Dateicon  13.6.2017  Parked   Feeticon  20.7km Total: 120.06km

Breakfast wasn't included and since I hauled plenty of readymeals along I might as well get one of those for breakfast.
The kettle belonging to the room was large enough to fit one so how big of a difference can there be between a heater bag and a kettle, hot water is hot water after all?
Success! The bag is so warm I can barely hold on to it and probably contains a more nutritious breakfast than I've had in a long time.
I knew lugging all this food along would pay off.

I wander off to Old Town with my trusty guidebook. My destination is what's called the the royal mile with the castle being the first stop of the day.
I feel a bit cheap but £17 might be the most I've ever paid to get into a tourist attraction.
But still it didn't deter me and not many others either it seemed because the line to the ticket booths was twenty minutes long.
I'm glad I booked the extra night because otherwise I might have been tempted to skip this considering the queue but in retrospect it was worth both the time and the money.

There where so many things to look at that I spent more than two hours in the castle.
In the gift shop there was a whiskey-tasting in progress and who can resist that? Freeeeeeeeeeeeee dram!
One of the more memorably things in the castle apart from the building itself was Mons Meg.
A canon built in 1449 and the largest ever fired in anger in Britain.
The calibre is 510mm (more than half a meter!) and the shot ways 175kgs a piece!

Another canon-related curiosity is that they still fire a gun at the castle at 1PM every day in accordance with a tradition dating all the way back to 1861 and the glory days of Edinburgh port and was used for the ship crew to calibrate their timepieces.
Originally a canon was used for this but nowadays it's a 105mm artillery piece doing the honours.

After viewing everything the castle had to offer I move along to St Giles Cathedral.
It's said that the oldest part of the church can be dated back to the year 1124 but there little to no evidence of that so the official dating is "just" the year 1385.
Luckily there where hosts inside the church and one of them pointed out a carved angel playing the bagpipes in the Thistle chapel, until otherwise convinced I'll assume that's pretty unique as church decorations go.

I mosey along the mile in Old town and go into John Knox house, the oldest preserved settlement in all of Edinburgh dating back to 1490.
John Knox is recognized as the man who led the reformation founder of the Presbyterian church of Scotland.

I hurry along to the very end of the mile and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queens official residence in Scotland and home to Scottish royalty since the 1500:s.
It was a place I definitely didn't want to miss and I make final admission with only minutes to spare.
As usual I was less impressed with contents and more so with the building but I did get a bit curios about some of the carpets.
Some of them are so large they'd be able to cover an entire village in the countryside.
I would love to know how they where made and how long it took to make them.

I'm a complete sucker for weird names so a pub/restaurant called the World's End is something I just can't just walk by.
The name of the pub comes from the time in the 16th century when Edinburgh was a walled city.
The gates to the city were situated right outside the pub and as far as the people of Edinburgh were concerned, the world outside these gates was no longer theirs, hence this was the World's end.
I'm obviously not the only one to fall into this tourist trap so I settle for a Guinness while I wait to be seated and once I get a table I order a Balmoral chicken, chicken with haggis stuffing.
It was really good, and that goes for the stuffing as well although that particular part is better enjoyed without overanalysing the contents.

While I was waiting to be seated I booked myself on a walking tour called the Edinburgh literary pub tour.
It's a two hour walk along the literary world of Edinburgh and the inspiration thereto.
The tour starts with a young male host rambling on about (in a very thick Scottish accent) how the main inspiration of the great authors was nothing more than whoring and alcohol (which in my personal opinion is probably pretty close to the truth) while a female member of the group interrupts and in the Queens English says that this is completely slanderous and all lies.
This shouting-match continues back and forth for a while until the host gives up and invites the woman to co-host the tour so they can settle once and for all who's right.
It obviously all part of the routine and the hosts aren't really just guides but rather (talented) actors who delivers a well rehearsed play.

The fact that we get to moisten our throats at every stop on the tour of course also contribute to everyone having a pretty good time.
As mostly oblivious to the works of the classic Scottish authors I thus had my work cut of for me trying to keep up but this was without a doubt the best guided tour I've ever been on.
Knowledge, warmth and humour delivered in high spirits with a beer or a wee dram in hand it was all in all a spectacular way to spend an evening.

So in a great mood and more than a slight bit intoxicated I wander back to my hotel.
Since it was something they talked about on the tour I noticed the Elephant House café on the way back which apparently is the literary birthplace of Harry Potter since it was there JK Rowling wrote a large part of the series.
And just a little farther down the road I found the statue of Greyfriars Bobby.

 

The royal mile
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Edinburgh castle
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The view from the castle
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Mons Meg
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Burial ground for the dogs of the castle
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View from different part of the castle grounds
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National War Museum
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The Great Hall
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The new One o'clock Gun
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St. Giles cathedral
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The ceiling of the Thistle Chapel in St. Giles, a Scottish order of nights who have taken the national symbol as theirs.
Here's a reasonable explanation to why the Scots choose the thistle as a national symbol.
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The angel playing a bagpipe
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John Knox House
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Holyrood palace (no photography allowed inside).
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Holyrood Abbey ruin
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The Worlds end and a haggis-stuffed chicken
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The literary pub tour, a grand spectacle
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The view from the bridge between old and new town with the Scott monument and Balmoral hotel in the background
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Greyfriars Bobby statue
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Day 16: Edinburgh

Skottland Wednesday  Dateicon  14.6.2017  Parked   Feeticon  18.22km Total: 138.28km

After a new breakfast of champions prepared in the kettle I once again walk to the royal mile to continue where I left off yesterday.
I start with Cannonball house, so named because it has a cannonball stuck in the façade facing the castle.
There seem to be two versions of why there's a cannonball lodged in the wall.
The one with the greatest entertainment value (and thus perhaps not completely surprising discarded as false) is that it's a stray ball fired from the castle on Holyrood in a battle of successors to the Scottish throne.
The other boring version (and thus probably true) is that it's deliberately cast in the wall to mark the height of the Comiston-watersource seven miles to the south which in those days supplied fresh water to the old town.

Right across from cannonball house is the Witches well, a well that commemorates the roughly 4000 women executed as witches between 1479 and 1722, over 300 of which where burned at the stake at this location.

I wander around pretty aimlessly in old town and amongst other things stick my head inside Mary King's close, a quarter that during the ravishing's of the plague was bricked shut with the people still inside to hinder the spread.
I'm sure the plague claimed many victims in this town since it was so cramped that when they opened up the quarter again they had to chop up the stiff bodies just to get them through the narrow alleys.
To no great surprise the place is now said to be haunted.

I also take a walk to New town and walk along princess street and the parallel streets.
The nice garden separating old and new time was nice and the Scott monument was impressive.
An interesting thing about the "New" town is that they started building it 1767 and I saw on a sign at a restaurant that it's been owned by the same family since the 1800:s.
I guess everything's relative.

All though I didn't do anything very constructive the pedometer in my phone states that I walked 18kms, a nice walk in a nice town.
I skip the haggis and grab some Chinese food on my way back to the hotel.

 

Cannonball house
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Witches Well
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This must score off the charts in Scottish-ness
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Scott monument
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Old Calton cemetary
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The castle as seen from New Town
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