Wednesday 
2.9.2015 
The absolute first thing on our agenda for today was sorting out the traffic insurance for the bikes.
Even though it is a relatively new phenomenon in this country (it was optional up until 2013) I don't want to give a police corps notorious for it's corruption a free pass to demand completely arbitrary fines for riding without one.
The receptionist offered to get their insurance agent to come to us at the hotel but that sounded like a good way to blow the budget to smithereens so I looked up a few places online and said I'll get back to her.
The TAS insurance company had an office less than five minutes walk from the hotel so we stumble in and ask if they can help us but regretfully they'll have to charge us for at least fifteen days insurance even though we only really needed one.
That would mean that they would have to charge us 82 Hryvnia per motorcycle and her expression looked as if that was expensive.
I just look at the bear who is just as ignorant about the local currency as I am and we simply conclude that our options are non existent so we strike the deal.
I now know it cost us less than three euros each.
The bureaucracy was apparently extensive since it took her at least half an hour to input all the data which means an hourly charge by the company of no more than twelve euros.
I don't think the employees are very well paid in this country.
With the paperwork sorted we need to do a quick stop back at the hotel to drop them off, mainly because I have laminated all the documents for the bike which make them a bit cumbersome to carry around.
Even so I maintain that it was a stroke of genius considering how often I've had to show them during this trip.
Now we can start up with the sightseeing and first stop is the Lychakiv cemetery which is so popular a tourist destination that we had to pay an entrance fee of 10 Hryvnia.
That converts to about 40 cents and was money very well spent.
The cemetery is completely ancient and partly overgrown without looking abandoned or mismanaged in any way, this is the final resting place of the Lviv elite and it shows with one magnificent grave trying to outdo the other.
Some graves have monuments and statues that would not look out of place in a museum.
After that we make our way into the city centre and grab some lunch at a grill.
I make the huge mistake of ordering the pineapple chilli believing that it would be a chilli with pineapple in it.
I guess I probably looked a bit disappointed when I got a plate full of sliced pineapple with chilli spice sprinkled on it.
The lady promptly saves the day, sharing a piece of her oversized steak because a plate of fruit for lunch would have been more than enough to make a grown man cry.
After lunch we go on an absolutely ridiculous hunt for the Rynok square, ridiculous because it took us far to long to find it considering it's an enormous square slap bang in the middle of town.
But at least we got to see most of the city centre on the way including the Latin cathedral with it's rich ornament was supposed to be the most beautiful of all Lviv's churches.
I'm not sure if I really liked the aesthetics of it that much.
I pretty much immediately drew the conclusion that they must have gotten a great price on gold leaf.
One of the best finds on our merry way was a market with so many curiosities that I'm glad I'm riding a motorcycle and thus have a very limited space for souvenirs because I could quite easily have filled up a pannier here.
Judging by the supply of a certain article the best selling product seem to be toilet paper with varying depictions of Vladimir Putin which I must admit I also thought was pretty funny.
We eat our supper at an "Italian restaurant" overlooking the square.
It turns out to be a glorified pizza place but the food turned out to be pretty good.
We save dessert for the terrace at the hotel, we didn't really get out fill of the view yesterday.
I didn't even mind that I got a cream cake after ordering crackers and fruit that I donated to the needing, with a dark beauty in my right hand and a twelve year old whisky in my left I was happy enough anyway.
When you can get a twelve year old whisky for less than €4 I'd rather drink my dessert anyway and considering the chewiness of the steak at the pizza place I could at lest make out to need some internal disinfectant.
Lychakiv cemetary
Rynok square
Latin cathedral
The neighbourliness in this part of the world doesn't seem to be all that good at the moment.
The terrace
